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What is Mercerization process of textile? | How to mercerize a cotton fabric?

What is Mercerization process of textile? | How to mercerize a cotton fabric?

 
How to mercerize  a cotton fabric?
Mercerization

Mercerization is carried out for the following purpose.

  1. Improving lustre (silky look, in tension mercerization only).
  2. Improving tensile strength.
  3. Improved dimensional stability.
  4. Increasing uniformity of dyeing & improving color yield (savings in dyestuff).
  5. Improving Elasticity or Stretch material (in slack mercerization only).
Mercerization is a process of impregnating the textile material with a concentrated solution of cold NaOH, keeping it in contact with this cold solution for a given time with or without tension, and subsequently rinsing it. 

MECHANISM-
Mercerization causes swelling in fibre
Swelling causes Cross-section to become rounder, loss of convolutions & detwisting leading to more lustrous surface
Opening of fibre structure
Increase in amorphous content due to decrystallization
Although mercerization is accompanied by swelling, it is more closely related to internal modification of fiber.
Effect is observed at 18-24 % w/w NaOH solutions.
Higher no of –OH groups available as compared to un-mercerized cotton
Higher moisture regain, dye-uptake and reactivity
The effect of mercerization is related to the size of the sodium hydroxide hydrates (NaOH. xH2O). The concentration of NaOH solution determines the value of x or the size of the hydrate. A dilute solution has larger sized hydrates, which can cause swelling in cotton fibre by entering the amorphous phase of the fibre. At higher concentrations, the hydrate volume is smaller. Such hydrates cause lower swelling but have the ability to penetrate the crystalline phase and change the crystal structure. Such changes are capable of inducing important structural modifications in fibre structure.
In the table given below, the composition of NaOH hydrate, corresponding NaOH concentration and the type of hydrate formation are shown:
 

What are Cellulose I and Cellulose II?

The native form of cellulose which occurs in cotton and other natural cellulosic fibres, is known as cellulose I. It has it unique crystal diffraction pattern (monoclinic). It is a thermodynamically less stable form of cellulose. When cellulose in converted to regenerated cellulosic fibres like viscose, dissolution of cellulose is an intermediate step. During regeneration, it gets converted to a different crystalline form, known as Cellulose II.
During mercerization also, some native cellulose gets converted to cellulose II. The extent of this conversion depends on process conditions like temperature, tension, NaOH concentration etc. 

How to mercerize  a cotton fabric?

How to mercerize to a cotton fabric?
Mercerization



Structural Modification

Effect of NaOH Concentration

It has been discussed that mercerization leads to conversion of cellulose I to cellulose II. Native cellulose is Cellulose I and regenerated cellulose (example – viscose) is cellulose II. However, during mercerization, conversion of cellulose I to cellulose II is only partial. Hence mercerized cotton is a combination of both crystalline forms. The extent of conversion is dependent on various process parameters like concentration of NaOH, time of treatment, temperature and tension employed in the process.
In the figure given below, the effect of NaOH concentration on crystallinity of cotton is given (time 60 sec, temp 20 °C, tension- to maintain length change=0%) 


 How to mercerize  a cotton fabric?
Mercerization 

Effect of temperature

Temperature seems to have a similar effect on conversion of cellulose I to cellulose II. Overall crystallinity also goes down. This is shown in the figure below:
 
How to mercerize  a cotton fabric?
Mercerization 


Enhancement in lustre
Cotton owes its non lustrous appearance to its non uniform twisted, convoluted, bean shaped fire cross section. As there is continuous change in the fibre cross section along its length, it has poor specular reflection which is responsible for high lustre. On mercerization, the fibre swells gradually and the false twist and the convolutions gradually disappear. The cross section becomes almost circular and the fibre acquires the shape of a regular uniform cylinder. This process of gradual change in the fibre cross section is depicted in figure below: 


what is mercerization process?
Enhasnce in lustre


In the above figure, stage 1-5 show swelling of cross section of fibre. It is easy to see conversion of a bean shaped flat cross section to almost round shape and gradual disappearance of lumen. Stage 6 and 7 are associated with removal of NaOH from fibre on washing and drying. It is important to note that on loss of sodium hydroxide during washing and subsequent drying, the fibre shrinks in cross sectional area, but maintains its rounder shape. Overall, there is very little gain in fibre volume due to mercerization, and hence the density of the fibre remains unaffected. 




Mechanical properties
Mercerization has been found to increase the tensile strength of cotton fibres even though a drop in overall crystallinity is recorded. The main reason for this phenomenon to occur is swelling of fibres. The presence of many convolutions and false twists in the fibres cause weak spots to be present. These weak spots act as zones of stress concentrations due to lower cross sectional area on application of a tensile stress. Swelling, which is an integral part of mercerization process, removes convolutions and false twists and the fibres acquire a more uniform cross section along its length. With weak spots gone, the fibres exhibit enhanced tensile strength as compared to a non-mercerized fibre.
Increase in tensile strength can be summarized as:
  • Removal of convolutions results in removal of weak spots at the point of reversal
  • Fibres have more uniform, circular and smoother cross section after mercerization
  • The fibrills are arranged parallel along the fibre axis
  • Fibre alignment along fibre axis is better in case of tension mercerization as compared to slack mercerization
Effect of tension
Mercerization has a significant effect on mechanical properties of cotton. In the figure given below, tenacity, breaking elongation and Young’s modulus of cotton mercerized with 300 gpl NaOH solution at 20 °C for 60 sec are plotted. The tension is varied to allow 10% shrinkage to 4% stretch. The elongation and modulus are indicated on secondary vertical axis. It is clear that the enhancement in both tenacity and modulus is higher at higher tension. It is easy to visualize this since it results in better alignment of molecular chains in fibre axis direction (higher orientation). However, in case of elongation, it is reverse. With increasing tension, the elongation at break decreases monotonically. It is to be expected as increasing orientation would lead to lower elongation. At negative tension though (shrinkage occurring) the breaking elongation is higher than that of unmercerized cotton.
Hence it can be concluded that if improving the tenacity of cotton yarn is the main objective, mercerization should be carried out under tension.
Effect of Alkali concentration
The effect of alkali concentration on tenacity, breaking elongation and Young’s modulus of cotton mercerized with NaOH solution of variable concentration at 20 °C for 60 sec at constant length are plotted in the figure given below. The alkali concentration is varied from 100 to 300 gpl. Again, the elongation and modulus are indicated on secondary vertical axis.
 
 
Machines for Mercerization:
Fabric Mercerization with Tension
1. Stenter type or chain mercerizing machine
2. Chainless mercerizing machine
3. Chainless and pad less mercerizing machine 








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Milan Tomic

Hi. I’m Designer of Blog Magic. I’m CEO/Founder of ThemeXpose. I’m Creative Art Director, Web Designer, UI/UX Designer, Interaction Designer, Industrial Designer, Web Developer, Business Enthusiast, StartUp Enthusiast, Speaker, Writer and Photographer. Inspired to make things looks better.

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